24 Nov 19 St. Kitts (Basseterre), St. Kitts & Nevis

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in 2019. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).

Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

We had set alarm for 6:30 am but woke at 6:15. We had ordered room service breakfast to be delivered at 6:45. The weather forecast was Mostly Sunny 84°F / 29° C.

The description of “St. Kitts (Basseterre), St. Kitts & Nevis” in the Viking Cruise Documents and the Viking Daily was as follows:

“Once a sugar-producing powerhouse, St. Kitts is lush with unspoiled vistas and old sugarcane fields. Together, St. Kitts and its neighboring island of Nevis comprise the smallest independent country in the Americas. Today, mangoes dominate the harvests instead of sugar. Home to velvet monkeys, banana trees and coconut palms, St. Kitts’ coastal perimeter road leads to white-sand beaches and calm bays. The compact capital and main port, Basseterre, is one of the oldest towns in the eastern Caribbean, dotted with Victorian and Georgian architecture. The grassy patch of Independence Square, in the heart of the town, is where locals gather to exchange gossip in the shade of stately 18th-century buildings and Basseterre’s English-style cathedral.”

8734a Viking Map of Basseterre.

Key to map:

 1 Port

 2. Mt. Nevis (off map past Southeast Peninsula)

 3 Berkeley Memorial Clock tower

 4 Independence Square

 5 National Museum of St. Kitts

 6 Brimstone Hill Fortress (off map to north on St. Kitts Island)

 7 Romney Manor and Caribelle Batik Studios

 8 Fairview Great House and Botanical Garden (off map to north on St. Kitts Island)

 9 Old Road Town (off map to north on St. Kitts Island)

10 Friars Bay (off map on Southeast Peninsula)

11 White House Bay (off map on Southeast Peninsula)

12 South Friars Beach (off map on Southeast Peninsula)

13 Cockleshell Beach (off map on Southeast Peninsula)

14 The Narrows and Pinny’s Beach (off map past Southeast Peninsula)

15 Frigate Bay (off map on Southeast Peninsula)

16 Royal St. Kitts Golf Course (off map on Southeast Peninsula)

17 Black Rocks (off map to north on St. Kitts Island)

18 Needmust Station (off map to north on St. Kitts Island)

19 JNF Hospital (off map to left)

20 St. Kitts Scenic Railway (off map to north on St. Kitts Island)

Basseterre (pop. 14,000) is the capital and largest city of St. Kitts and Nevis, located on the southwestern coast of St. Kitts island. It is one of the oldest towns in the Eastern Caribbean and one of the chief commercial depots of the Leeward Islands.

Basseterre was founded in 1627 by the French. It served as the capital of the French colony of Saint-Christophe, which consisted of the northern and southern extremities of the island of St. Kitts (the center belonged to Britain). In 1639, the town became a large, successful port, commanding Eastern Caribbean trade and colonization. From then until 1660, Basseterre became the capital of the entire French West Indies colony, which included the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. In 1727, it was made the capital of the entire island of St. Kitts, following French expulsion from the island and full British control.

The city lies within the large Basseterre Valley, almost completely surrounded by hills and mountains. It is primarily low-lying, which is one explanation for the name the French gave it, since Basseterre translates to “low land” in English. However, the name is also due to the fact that the city is on the lee of winds of the island and is thus a safe anchorage. The region to the north was dubbed Capesterre, since it was facing the wind.

The Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis (pop. around 53,000) is also known as the Federation of Saint Christopher and Nevis; its constitution uses both names. It is a federal parliamentary constitutional monarchy and a Commonwealth realm with Elisabeth II as queen and head of state. It is the smallest sovereign state in the Western Hemisphere, in both area and population. It is located in the Leeward Islands of the Lesser Antilles in the West Indies. St. Kitts and Nevis were among the first islands in the Caribbean to be colonized by Europeans. English is the sole official language, but the vernacular language of St. Kitts Creole is also widely spoken.

The country consists of the larger island of St. Kitts and the smaller island of Nevis 3 km (2 mi) to the southeast.

St. Kitts was named “Liamuiga,” which roughly translated as “fertile land,” by the Kalinago who originally inhabited the island. The name is preserved via St. Kitts’s tallest peak, Mount Liamuiga. The pre-Columbian name of Nevis was “Oualie,” meaning “land of beautiful waters.” It is thought that Christopher Columbus, the first European to see the islands in 1493, named the larger island San Cristobál, after St. Christopher, his patron saint and patron of travelers. However, new studies suggest that Columbus named the island Sant Yago (St. James) and that he actually the name San Cristobál to the island now known as Saba (32 km [20 mi]) northwest. It seems that “San Cristobál“ came to be applied to the island of St. Kitts as the result of a mapping error.

Regardless of the origin of the name, the island was well documented as “San Cristobál” by the 17th century. The first settlers were the English in 1623, followed by the French in 1625, and the island was partitioned into French and English sectors. The first English colonists kept the English translation of this name and dubbed it “St. Christopher’s Island.” In the 17th century, the common nickname for Christopher was Kit(t); hence the island came to be informally referred as “Saint Kitt’s Island,” later further shortened to “Saint Kitts.”

Although Columbus gave Nevis the name “San Martin,” the current name Nevis is derived from a Spanish name Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, meaning “Our Lady of the Snows.”

In 1713, the French renounced their claim to the islands, and by the close of the 18th century, St. Kitts had become the richest British Crown Colony per capita in the Caribbean as a result of its slave-based sugar industry. The African slave trade was terminated within the British Empire in 1807, and slavery was completely outlawed in 1834.

In 1882, the British dependency of Anguilla, which lies to the north-northwest, was originally a part of this federation, which was then known collectively as Saint Christopher-Nevis, Anguilla. However, Anguilla chose to secede from the union in 1967 and remains a British overseas territory. St. Kitts and Nevis achieved full independence in 1983 but opted to remain within the British Commonwealth.

Sunday, November 24 6:41 AM – Basseterre: view from our balcony as Viking Sea approached Basseterre, with tops of hills in clouds.

6:41 AM – Basseterre: looking farther to east from our balcony as Viking Sea approached Basseterre, with colorful clouds.

MT 6:34 AM – Basseterre: looking farther to east from our balcony as Viking Sea approached Basseterre, with colorful clouds.

MT 6:35 AM – Basseterre: looking farther to east from our balcony as Viking Sea approached Basseterre, with colorful clouds (mild telephoto 44 mm).

6:42 AM – Basseterre: looking back to west from our balcony as Viking Sea approached Basseterre, with tops of hills in colorful clouds.

7:03 AM – Basseterre: view, from our balcony, of harbor with long piers.

7:06 AM – Basseterre: view, from our balcony, back to west, with sun rays through dark clouds.

7:15 AM – Basseterre: view, from our balcony, of long pier toward gate of Port Zante.

At 8:45, we went to the Theater meeting place for group 14 for the (optional) “Nature Kayaking” shore excursion.

The Viking Cruise Documents described the 3-hour “Nature Kayaking” shore excursion as follows:

“Trace the Coast Along a Dramatic Peninsula

“Explore the stunning southeast coast of St. Kitts by snorkel and by kayak. You will meet your guise and drive past the Frigate Bay Resort onto the South-East Peninsula Highway. This modern road follows the dramatic narrow stretch of land that points toward Nevis. Admire views of the Atlantic to the north and the Caribbean to the south. Later, don your provided snorkel gear and explore the underwater world of colorful coral, vibrant fish and perhaps rays or turtles. They bord your ocean kayak and paddle along the rugged, unspoiled coastline, a magnificent expanse of secluded coves, tall cliffs and watery grottoes. Your guide will always be nearby to shed light on this tranquil marine habitat. The hour-long kayaking sojourn takes you from White House Bay to the pristine, sandy shored of Friars Bay, where you will step ashore to refresh yourself with island delicacies and tropical fruit juices.”

The excursion began by taking a small bus to the beach.

9:09 AM – St. Kitts: view, through bus window, of a bay with beach on Atlantic.

9:11 AM – St. Kitts: view, through bus window, of peninsula with Atlantic (on left, with beach) and Caribbean (on right).

MT 9:03 AM – St. Kitts: view, through bus window, of beach on Atlantic.

Because most of this excursion was either in or on the water, we did not take Don’s camera or MT’s iPhone when we left the bus.

MT was able to get in some snorkeling (her only problem was walking from the beach into the water with very large flippers on her feet and getting salt water in her mouth when breathing through the snorkel), although she didn’t report having seen too much of interest underwater. Don had bought prescription swimming goggles to wear while snorkeling so he could see underwater but discovered they wouldn’t fit under the face mask attached to the snorkel. He tried the snorkel anyway but couldn’t see very well and also got sea water in his mouth. After a few minutes, he retreated to the shore.

MT 11:47 AM – St. Kitts: MT and Don preparing to board our kayak.

We also had a few problems using the kayak.

After the kayaking, we returned by bus to the Viking Sea in Port Zante at round noon. Before lunch, we went to the Explorers’ Desk and exchanged our tickets for the (optional) shore excursion “Kayak, Hike & Snorkel of Cas Cay” at St. Thomas on Nov 30 for another tour “St. John National Park Champagne Catamaran Sail”

We ate lunch at the Pool Grill (salads, seared ahi tuna. and pulled pork).

We would have been rushed to make the afternoon (included) shore excursion “Historic Basseterre & Fairview Great House” starting at 2 pm, which we had already booked. So, around 2:30, we went into Basseterre on our own to see things marked of the Viking map.

2:28 PM – Basseterre: Port Zante – Celebrity Summit (left) and Viking Sea (Right) at dock.

2:29 PM – Basseterre: Port Zante Gate (dock side).

MT 2:22 PM – Basseterre: Port Zante Gate (dock side).

We followed the Viking map to the Circus.

2:39 PM – Basseterre: Berkeley Memorial Clock Tower in Circus (mild telephoto 49 mm).

The Circus, the centerpiece of Basseterre’s evocative Georgian architecture, is a diminutive roundabout modeled in proper Victorian patriotism after Piccadilly in London.

The Berkeley Memorial Clock Tower stands in the center of the Circus in Basseterre. The memorial features a drinking fountain on its base, as well a clock. There are four clock faces, each one facing one of the four streets leading to the Circus. The ornate, cast iron tower, clad in bright green, has more than a little architectural decoration. It was erected in 1883 in honor of Thomas Berkeley Hardtman Berkeley, a former president of the General Legislative Council in the 1880s and owner of the estates called Fountain, Greenland, Greenhill, Ottleys, Shadwell, and Stone Fort.

Then we went to Independence Square.

2:41 PM – Basseterre: sign, as southeast corner of square, for Plaza de la Independencia / Independence Square in English, Spanish, and French; English test reads:

“Created as a place of relaxation in the 1730’s Pall Mall Square became a market place where enslaved Africans sold their wares on Sunday. Surrounding buildings held warehouses where slaves were sold. In 1792 a court house was built and the Square became the centre of administration. In 1983, it was renamed Independence Square.”

The Plaza de la Independencia (Independence Square in English) was named this on the occasion of the new nation of St. Kitts and Nevis achieving political independence in 1983. The Square started its life as a pasture on the edge of town. As early as 1728, it was intended to be used as a public place, but there was disagreement as to how this should come about. In 1750, a law was passed to build a court house, but there were disputes as to who owned the land. Finally, in 1792, the Government acquired the property on the southeast side of the square, and it soon became a significant administrative building housing offices of the registrar, the Secretary, the Courts of Justice, the Assembly, and the Council. An Auction House was also located in one of the buildings that surround the square.

Its layout was designed to look like the British Union Jack, and the streets and houses surrounding it once dated to the mid-18th century.

Originally called Plaza Pall Mall (Pall Mall Square), the Government first acquired it in 1750 and it rapidly became the administrative, commercial, and social center of Basseterre. The Square was the site of a market where the enslaved Africans sold the products of their small gardens and other things they made. Slaves were temporarily quartered in the basement of a building on the south side of the square. This was probably the Auction house. The slaves were also sold through the business place of slave traders, many of whom operated in the Square and Liverpool Row.

MT 2:33 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – Don with tree.

2:43 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – fountain with Cathedral in background (mild telephoto 49 mm).

In 1855, the St. Kitts Legislative Council decided to bring pipe-borne water into Basseterre, which would enable them to carry out complicated improvements in Pall Mall Square. When the project was completed, a stone fountain was built in the center of the square to commemorate this significant development. At the top of the fountain, there are three Grecian-styled ladies and a small child. Surrounding the circumference of the fountain are lovely flowering plants.

2:43 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – MT taking photo of white bird on fountain rim (telephoto 105 mm).

MT 2:35 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – white bird on fountain rim (telephoto 113 mm).

MT 2:36 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – white bird in fountain (telephoto 76 mm).

2:43 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – MT by fountain with Cathedral in background.

MT 2:36 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – fountain (mild telephoto 50 mm).

2:45 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – flamboyant tree with long green pods.

Delonix regia in full bloom in Florida (By Averette - Digital photo taken by Marc Averette. Own work by uploader., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4274804).

Delonix regia (flamboyant tree) is a species of flowering plant in the bean family Fabaceae, subfamily Caesalpiniodeae. It is noted for its fern-like leaves and flamboyant display of flowers. In English, it is given the name royal poinciana, flame of the forest, flame tree, or flamboyant tree. It is native to Madagascar but planted in tropical and sub-tropical regions worldwide as an ornamental tree. In India, it is called Gulmohar. The species was previously placed in the genus Poinciana, named for Phillippe de Longvilliers de Poincy, the 17th-century governor of St. Christopher (St. Kitts). Its blossom is the national flower of St. Kitts and Nevis.

Delonix regia seed pods (By Filo gèn' - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=83302320).

Flamboyant Tree seed pods are long and slender, up to 30-60 cm (12-24 inches) long and 5 cm wide. They are flaccid when young. When the pods become dry, woody, and brown, the seeds inside rattle when the pods are shaken. However, it is the stunning beauty of the flamboyant’s flowers that have made it famous. When in full bloom, in the spring through summer, before its leaves emerge, the umbrella-shaped crown is bursting with hundreds of large, scarlet, orange-red or sometimes yellow flowers.

MT 2:38 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – long green pods on flamboyant tree (mild telephoto 58 mm).

2:45 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – long green pods on flamboyant tree (telephoto 105 mm).

2:47 PM – Basseterre:– another sign for “Independence Square” near Co-Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, with text in English, French, Spanish, and German; English text reads:

“Independence Square formerly Pall Mall Square, was renamed on the 19th September 1983 to commemorate the independence of St. Christopher [sic! in all 4 languages] and Nevis.

[Only the German adds a sentence that translates: “The square was used by enslaved persons as a marketplace in order to sell their wares.”]

 “The stone fountain in the center was erected to commemorate the introduction of pipe borne water from Olivees into Basseterre in the 19th century.”

2:46 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception – façade viewed from Independence Square.

The Co-Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is located on East Independence Square (street), on the east side of Independence Square. (Google map shows it at the northeast corner of Independence Square.)

In the early stages of the French occupation of Basseterre, a Roman Catholic church was erected in the town by the Jesuits and dedicated to Our Lady (Notre Dame). It was burned to the ground in 1706 during the Anglo-French War by English soldiers who were billeted there. The church was rebuilt by 1710 and renamed St. George’s (which still exists). From the 1720s, it became a place of worship for the Anglicans.

After the takeover of the island by the English in 1713, Roman Catholics were forbidden by law to worship in  public. An act passed in 1829 finally removed this restriction. The steady influx of Portuguese migrants from 1835 onward strengthened the growth of the Catholic community. A church was built in or about 1856 and was called the church of the Immaculate Conception. By 1885, the building was in a dilapidated state and could not accommodate the growing congregation. In 1927, it was demolished and replaced by a modern edifice on the same site on East Square Street. It was dedicated in 1928. It is typical of Catholic architecture, with two cross-topped bell towers, a central rosette window, and a cruciform layout. The ornate church was constructed out of grey stone. In 1981, the church was elevated to the status of co-cathedral within the diocese of St. John’s, Antigua.

MT 2:38 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception – façade viewed from Independence Square.

2:48 PM – Basseterre: sign for “Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception,” with text in English, French, Spanish, and German; English text reads:

“Co[-]Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is an ornate church constructed out of grey stone, designed by Father Claeys and is located on the eastern side of Independence Square.

“The church was dedicated in 1928.”

2:49 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception – view from rear of nave to main altar in apse.

2:51 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception – baptismal font at right front of nave, with statue of John the Baptist and Jesus.

2:51 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception – baptismal font at right front of nave, close-up of statue of John the Baptist and Jesus.

MT 2:42 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception – rose window above choir at rear of nave; across choir railing is “Praise Him with Strings and Organs” (mild telephoto 65 mm).

2:55 PM – Basseterre: Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception – north side with bell tower.

Then we went back through Independence Square.

2:57 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – fountain from east.

2:58 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – white bird in fountain (telephoto 156 mm).

MT 2:50 PM – Basseterre: Independence Square – white bird in fountain taking flight (telephoto 86 mm).

On a street near the Berkeley Clock Tower, on our way back to the ship, we saw a group of colorful Carnival dancers on the Marina Village pedestrian mall just north of the Port Zante Gate.

MT 2:57 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers in pedestrian mall.

The St. Kitts and Nevis National Carnival is known by locals as Sugar Mas. It is the biggest event on the island. The island erupts into a series of colorful vibrant parades and street performances. The soca and calypso never stops pumping, whip[ping everyone into a frenzied dance. The 48th edition ran from November 8 (or 22?), 2019 to January 4, 2020. (It typically starts from the second week of November and lasts until the first week of January.) Masquerade (or Mas) evolved over the past three centuries from a mix of African and European traditions. On Parade Day, revelers don colorful feathered costumes before marching through the nation’s capital. The event also serves a cultural purpose: folklore groups dominate the activities, introducing the crowd to moko jumbies (tall male figures on stilts), masqueraders (wearing brightly patterned long-sleeved shirts with trousers, topped with masks and headdresses decorated with peacock feathers), clowns (with clown masks [or pink masks meant to represent Europeans] and dressed in eye-popping baggy jump suits with bells on them), and other traditional figures.

3:05 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers in pedestrian mall.

3:05 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers in pedestrian mall.

3:05 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers in pedestrian mall.

MT 2:57 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers in pedestrian mall.

3:05 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers and steel band in pedestrian mall.

MT 2:57 PM – Basseterre: Carnival dancers and steel band in pedestrian mall (mild telephoto 44 mm).

3:10 PM – Basseterre: view of pedestrian mall with Zante Port Gate and ship in distance and woman in foreground carrying a bag on her head.

3:10 PM (Cropped) – Basseterre: view of pedestrian mall with woman carrying a bag on her head.

It sprinkled a bit on our way back to the ship.

Back on board the Viking Sea, we went to the Pool Deck (on Deck 7) at 3:45 for the “Steel Band Surprise” performance by “a local steel band group” (of two men. Don stayed until 4:15 and MT until 4:45.

MT around 4 PM – Viking Sea: steel band (Screen Shot from MT’s video).

MT around 4 PM – Viking Sea: steel band (Video).

MT 5:01 PM – Viking Sea: Don in Hawaiian (or Caribbean??) shirt on balcony of our stateroom.

At 5:15, we saw a rainbow.

5:15 PM – Basseterre: rainbow near another cruise ship in Basseterre Bay (telephoto 105 mm).

5:15 PM – Basseterre: rainbow near another cruise ship in Basseterre Bay (telephoto 156 mm).

MT 5:97 PM – Basseterre: rainbow near another cruise ship in Basseterre Bay (telephoto 87 mm).

5:16 PM – Basseterre: rainbow near another cruise ship in Basseterre Bay (mild telephoto 44 mm).

5:16 PM – Basseterre: rainbow near another cruise ship in Basseterre Bay.

At 5:30, we went to the Atrium (Deck 1) for the “Explorers’ Society” loyalty toast for guests who had sailed with Viking Cruises before. It was there that we learned that the Viking Sea had a crew of 450 in addition to 930 guests.

MT 5:21 PM – Viking Sea: hors d’oeuvres served at Explorers’ Society.

MT 5:21 PM (Screen Shot from MT’s Video) – Viking Sea: resident pianist Aleksandra entertaining in Atrium before Explorers’ Society.

MT 5:21 PM – Viking Sea: resident pianist Aleksandra entertaining in Atrium before Explorers’ Society (VIDEO).

5:25 PM – Viking Sea: resident pianist Aleksandra entertaining in Atrium before Explorers’ Society, with society emblem on screen at top of stairs (slight telephoto 30 mm).

5:31 PM – Viking Sea: Atrium with Explorers’ Society emblem on screen at top of stairs, stars hanging from ceiling, and Christmas garlands on sides.

At 6:15, there was a Port Talk for Castries, St. Lucia, but we missed it in order to go directly to dinner in the Restaurant, which we had pre-ordered for Don due to his ginger allergy.